Make Your Own Hats by Gene Allen Martin (list of e readers .TXT) 📕
- Author: Gene Allen Martin
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This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat. There are many kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season, but if the making of a few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may be easily copied.
SECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON THE WIRESECTION OF MALINE POMPON SHOWING METHOD OF FASTENING ON THE WIRE RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM
RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON LOW PYRAMID OF BUCKRAM TRUE LOVERS' KNOT
TRUE LOVERS' KNOT RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION
RADIATING PLEATING MADE ON BUCKRAM FOUNDATION SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)
SECOND METHOD OF MAKING AN ORCHID CENTER (see page 91)
Pleatings
A pleating is difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread. Press slightly on the wrong side before using.
Box pleating—
This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will be one inch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center and the edges caught together.
Double or triple box-pleating—
This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed. The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and it is then known as rose pleating.
Radiating—
This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, but very handsome ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other models and original designs can be easily made.
Foundations of buckram—
The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these points. The last or finishing row is the most difficult of all. The pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished without either bow or button.
Pompons
Maline pompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be cut like pattern “a.” Each piece is folded lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact.
Ribbon Rosettes
There are many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosette is made of narrow ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness.
Rosettes from old plumes—
An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing addition.
CHAPTER VIII HAND-MADE FLOWERSFlowers
Material required: Tie wire, green Gum tissue, brown and green Cotton batting Milliner's glue Yellow stamens Dark green tissue paperFlowers may be made from almost any fabric—satin, velvet, georgette, maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials. Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits, and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous number of the best examples are given here with illustrations.
To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed.
American Beauty rose—
This rose may be made of silk or satin; it may have as many petals as desired. Each petal is cut from a piece of folded material like the diagram (1). It is highly important that the folded edge be on a true bias. Begin the rose by cutting three petals like the illustration, with the bias edge one and one-half inches long. Run a gathering thread one-eighth of an inch from the curved edge, leaving a thread one inch long so that the petal may be adjusted as it is pinned in place. Make a loop one inch long on the end of a piece of wire six inches long. Cover this loop with a small circle of the material like the rose. It is sometimes found to be advantageous to fill this circle with cotton to make a soft center for the rose.
For an ordinary-sized rose there should be eighteen petals. The first three are already described as having a one and one-half-inch bias. The next larger in size should have a two-inch bias and be correspondingly wider; the next five should have a two and one-half-inch bias, and the next five a three-inch bias. The three small petals should be arranged around the covered loop of wire and pinned in place before sewing. Sew securely. Each row, as it is arranged according to size, should be pinned in place and scrutinized carefully to see that it is placed effectively. Each row should be placed a little higher than the preceding one. See that the face of the flower looks as nearly like a real rose as possible, allowing the back to look as it will.
With a little experience one soon becomes efficient and learns how to adjust the different materials. Some materials being more pliable than others, the shape of the petals may be changed slightly to meet the need. The back of the rose may be finished by adding a sufficient number of green leaves taken from some discarded flower or bought for the purpose. A small green cup is also added to finish the base; these may be bought at ribbon counters. The bud used with this rose may be made by using the three smallest petals. Some green foliage must also be used with this rose and the stem bound with a narrow gray-green ribbon, or with gum tissue which should be warmed before using. The inside petals may be of a darker shade than the outside petals.
Ribbon rose—
To make a medium-sized ribbon rose requires two yards of satin ribbon two inches wide. There are several different methods of making the center for this rose. A simple center for this rose may be made from a piece of the ribbon, four inches long. Fold this in half. Sew the selvages together along one side. Turn and fill with cotton around which has been wound the end of a six-inch piece of frame wire. A little rose-scented sachet powder may be sprinkled on this cotton to add perfume to the blossom. Gather the satin down close to the wire after rounding the corners at the lower edges. Two yards should make this center and eighteen petals. More may be added or fewer may be used. For the first row cut three lengths three inches long; the second row, five lengths three and one-half inches long; third row, five lengths four inches long; fourth row five lengths four and one-half inches long. Each petal is finished the same before it is sewed in place Fold the two ends together, turn each corner of the folded end down diagonally and pin in place.
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