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excess of water, butter is adulterated in other ways. Old, stale butter is occasionally melted, washed, salted, and reworked. This product is known as renovated butter, and has poor keeping qualities. Frequently preservatives are added to such butter to delay fermentation changes. Oleomargarine and butterine are made by mixing vegetable and animal fats.[40] Highly colored stearin, cotton-seed oil, and lard are the usual materials from which oleomargarine is made. It has practically the same composition, digestibility, and food value as butter. When sold under its true name and not as butter, there is no objection, as it is a valuable food and supplies heat and energy at less cost than butter. The main objection to oleomargarine and butterine is that they are sold as butter.[41]

The coloring of butter is not generally looked upon as adulteration, for butter naturally has a more or less yellow tinge. According to an act of Congress, butter colors of a non-injurious character are allowed to be used.

CHEESE

121. General Composition.—Cheese, is made by the addition of rennet to ripened milk, resulting in coagulation of the casein, which mechanically combines with the fat. It differs from butter in composition by containing, in addition to fat, casein and appreciable amounts of mineral matter. The composition varies with the character of the milk from which the cheese was made. Average milk produces cheese containing a larger amount of fat than proteids, while cheese from skimmed or partially skimmed milk is proportionally poorer in fat. Ordinarily there is about 35 per cent of water, 33 per cent of fat, and 27 per cent of casein, and albumin or milk proteids, the remainder being ash, salt, milk sugar, and lactic acid. Cheese is characterized by its large percentage of both fat and protein, and has high food value. It contains more fat and protein than any of the meats; in fact, there are but few foods which have such liberal amounts of these nutrients as cheese.

The odor and flavor of cheese are due to workings of bacteria which result in the production of aromatic compounds. The purity and condition of the milk, as well as the method of manufacture and the kind of ferment material used, determine largely the flavor and odor. Cheese is generally allowed to undergo a ripening or curing process before it is used as food. The changes resulting consist mainly in increased solubility of the proteids, with the formation of a small amount of amid and aromatic compounds.[42]

122. Digestibility.—Cheese is popularly considered an indigestible food, but extended experiments show that it is quite completely digested, although in the case of some individuals not easily digested. In general, about 95 per cent of the fat and 92 per cent and more of the protein is digested, depending upon the general composition of the cheese and the digestive capacity of the individual. As far as total digestibility is concerned, there appears to be but little difference between green and well-cured cheese. So far as ease of digestion is concerned, it is probable that some difference exists. There is also but little difference in digestibility resulting from the way in which milk is made into cheese, the nutrients of Roquefort, Swiss, Camembert, and Cheddar being about equally digestible.[13] The differences in odor and taste are due to variations in kind and amount of bacterial action. When combined with other foods, cheese may exercise a beneficial influence upon digestion in the same way as noted from the use of several foods in a ration. No material differences were observed in digestibility when cheese was used in small amounts, as for condimental purposes, or when used in large amounts to furnish nutrients. Artificial digestion experiments show that cheese is more readily acted upon by the pancreatic than by the gastric fluids, suggesting that cheese undergoes intestinal rather than gastric digestion. It is possible this is the reason that cheese is slow of digestion in the case of some individuals.

123. Use in the Dietary.—Cheese should be used in the dietary regularly and in reasonable amounts, rather than irregularly and then in large amounts. Cheese is not a luxury, but ordinarily it is one of the cheapest and most nutritious of human foods. A pound of cheese costing 15 cents contains about a quarter of a pound of protein and a third of a pound of fat; at the same price, beef yields only about half as much fat and less protein. Cheese at 18 cents per pound furnishes more available nutrients and energy than beef at 12 cents per pound. In the dietary of European armies, cheese to a great extent takes the place of beef. See Chapter XVI.

124. Cottage Cheese is made by coagulating milk and preparing the curd by mixing with it cream or melted butter and salt or sugar as desired. When milk can be procured at little cost, cottage cheese is one of the cheapest and most valuable foods.[43]

125. Different Kinds of Cheese.—By the use of different kinds of ferments and variations in the process of manufacture different types or kinds of cheese are made, as Roquefort, Swiss, Edam, Stilton, Camembert, etc. In the manufacture of Roquefort cheese, which is made from goats' and ewes' milk, bread is added and the cheese is cured in caves, resulting in the formation of a green mold which penetrates the cheese mass, and produces characteristic odor and flavor. Stilton is an English soft, rich cheese of mild flavor, made from milk to which cream is usually added. It is allowed to undergo an extended process of ripening, often resulting in the formation of bluish green threads of fungus. Limburger owes its characteristic odor and flavor to the action of special ferment bodies which carry on the ripening process. Neufchatel is a soft cheese made from sweet milk to which the rennet is added at a high temperature. After pressing, it is kneaded and worked, and then put into packages and covered with tin foil.

126. Adulteration of Cheese.—The most common forms of adulteration are the manufacture of skim-milk cheese by the removal of the fat from the milk, and substitution of cheaper and foreign fats, making a product known as filled cheese. When not labeled whole milk cheese, or sold as such, there is no objection to skim-milk cheese. It has a high food value and is often a cheap source of protein. The manufacture of filled cheese is now regulated by the national government, and all such cheese must pay a special tax and be properly labeled. As a result, the amount of filled cheese upon the market has very greatly decreased, and cheese is now less adulterated than in former years. The national dairy law allows the use of coloring matter of a harmless nature in the manufacture of cheese.

127. Dairy Products in the Dietary.—The nutrients in milk are produced at less expense for grain and forage than the nutrients in beef, hence from a pecuniary point of view, dairy products, as milk and cheese, have the advantage. In the case of butter, however, the cost usually exceeds that of meat. In older agricultural regions, where the cost of beef production reaches the maximum, dairying is generally resorted to, as it yields larger financial returns, and as a result more cheese and less beef are used in the dietary. As the cost of meats is enhanced, dairy products, as cheese, naturally take their place.

CHAPTER VIII MEATS AND ANIMAL FOOD PRODUCTS

128. General Composition.—Animal tissue is composed of the same classes of compounds as plant tissue. In each, water makes up a large portion of the weight, and the dry matter is composed of nitrogenous and non-nitrogenous compounds, and ash or mineral matter. Plants and animals differ in composition not so much as to the kinds of compounds, although there are differences, but more in the percentage amounts of these compounds. In plants, with the exception of the legumes, the protein rarely exceeds 14 per cent, and in many vegetable foods, when prepared for the table, there is less than 2 per cent. In meats the protein ranges from 15 to 20 per cent. The non-nitrogenous compounds of plants are present mainly in the form of starch, sugar, and cellulose, while in animal bodies there are only traces of carbohydrates, but large amounts of fat. Fat is the chief non-nitrogenous compound of meats; it ranges between quite wide limits, depending upon kind, age, and general condition of the animal. Meats contain the same general classes of proteins as the vegetable foods; in each the proteins are made up of albumins, glubulins, albuminates, peptone-like bodies, and insoluble proteids. The larger portion of the protein of meats and cereals is in insoluble forms. The meat juices, which contain the soluble portion of the proteins, constitute less than 5 percent of the nitrogenous compounds. Meats contain less amid substances than plants, in which the amids are produced from ammonium compounds and are supposed to be intermediate products in the formation of proteids, while in the animal body they are derived from the proteids supplied in the food and, it is generally believed, cannot form proteids. Albuminoids make up the connective tissue, hair, and skin, and are more abundant in animal than in plant tissue. One of the chief albuminoids is gelatine. Both plant and animal foods undergo bacterial changes resulting in the production of alkaloidal bodies known as ptomaines, of which there are a large number. These are poisonous and are what cause putrid and stale meat to be unwholesome. The protein in meat differs little in general composition from that of vegetable origin; differences in structure and cleavage products between the two are, however, noticeable.

Fig. 26.
Fig. 26.—Meat and Extractive Substances.

While meats from different kinds of animals have somewhat the same general composition, they differ in physical properties, and also in the nature of the various nutrients. For example, pork contains less protein than beef, but the protein of pork is materially different from that of beef, as a larger portion is in the form of soluble proteids, while in beef more is present in an insoluble form. Not only are differences in the percentage of individual proteins noticeable, but there are equally as great differences in the fats. As for example: some of the meats have a larger proportion of the fat as stearin than do others. Hence meats differ in texture and taste more than in nutritive value, due to the variations in the percentage of the different proteins, fats, and extractive material, rather than to differences in the total amounts of these compounds. The taste and flavor of meat is to a large extent influenced by the amount of extractive material.

While the nutrients of meats are divided into classes, as proteins and fats, there are a large number of separate compounds which make up each of the individual classes, and there are also small amounts of compounds which are not included in these groups.

Fig. 27.
Fig. 27.—Standard Cuts of Beef. (From Office of Experiment Station Bulletin.)

129. Beef.—About one half of the weight of beef is water; the lean meat contains a much larger amount than the fat. As a rule, the parts of the animal that contain the most fat contain the least water. In some meats there is considerable refuse, 25 to 30 per cent. In average meat about 12 per cent of the butcher's weight is refuse and non-edible parts.[44] A pound of average butcher's meat is about one half water, and over 10 per cent waste and refuse, which leaves less than 40 per cent fat

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